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How Hermès is Betting on Fungus-Based Biomaterials to Redefine Luxury
- Karina Gupta
- Mar 15
- 2 min read
Luxury fashion in 2024, is all about innovation—specifically, innovation that aligns with sustainability. Enter Reishi, a mycelium-based biomaterial that has captured the attention of high-end brands, most notably Hermès. The French maison, synonymous with leather craftsmanship, is now incorporating lab-grown fungal materials into its offerings, marking a potential paradigm shift in how luxury defines quality and sustainability.
Reishi, developed by California-based MycoWorks, is a leather alternative grown from mycelium, the root-like structure of fungi. The material mimics the texture, durability, and feel of traditional leather while offering a significantly lower environmental footprint. With its recently launched e-commerce platform, MycoWorks is making Reishi available for direct purchase in sample kits and bulk orders, ranging from $150 for small swatches to $8,000 for 50 sheets. The move not only democratizes access to the material but also signals that mycelium leather is scaling rapidly.
Hermès, along with brands like Heron Preston and Nick Fouquet, has been an early adopter of Reishi. The maison’s experimentation with mycelium is particularly noteworthy given its deep-rooted association with traditional leather craftsmanship. By integrating Reishi into select products, Hermès is positioning itself at the forefront of luxury’s next evolution: one where sustainability doesn’t compromise quality but enhances it.
Hermès’ foray into fungal leather isn’t happening in isolation. Other major players are investing in mycelium-based materials, recognizing their potential to disrupt the leather industry. Kering-backed Mogu Srl raised $12 million in Series A funding last year, while Ecovative Design secured $30 million to expand its mycelium-derived textile offerings. Meanwhile, MycoWorks’ own commercial-scale production facility in South Carolina is capable of growing millions of square feet of Reishi annually—a clear indication that the industry is preparing for mainstream adoption.
“Luxury has always been about materials,” says Sophia Wang, co-founder of MycoWorks. “Reishi allows brands like Hermès to stay true to their heritage while embracing the future.”
Despite its promise, mycelium leather has historically faced durability and performance issues. MycoWorks aims to solve these challenges with its newly announced Rei-Tanning technology, developed in partnership with teams in San Francisco and Spain. The process enhances Reishi’s water resistance, haptics, and overall durability, making it a viable alternative to traditional leather.
Hermès’ involvement in this space suggests confidence in these advancements. “When a brand with a 187-year history of leather mastery adopts a new material, the industry pays attention,” says luxury consultant Pauline Brown. “This isn’t a gimmick; it’s a calculated investment in longevity.”
Luxury brands face increasing scrutiny over their environmental impact, and leather production is a major target for criticism. By embracing biomaterials like Reishi, Hermès is not only future-proofing its business but also setting a precedent for the entire industry. While leather alternatives have long been dismissed as inferior, the fact that one of the world’s most prestigious fashion houses is integrating mycelium suggests that high-end sustainability is no longer a contradiction—it’s the next frontier.
The question now isn’t whether mycelium leather will succeed; it’s whether the rest of the luxury market will follow Hermès’ lead before being forced to catch up.
